Breathtaking Peru promises high adventure

in the land of the Inca

I have just returned from a unique travel experience. I took an adventure tour to Peru with Tucan Travel, part of the Trek Holidays family, and it was awesome. I’m an avid walker here in Calgary, but it did not quite prepare me for the rugged highlands of Peru. The altitude of course is much higher than ours, making breathing a tad harder, but the scenery was incredible, especially on the Lares Trek. Interaction with friendly locals was another highlight for me.

THE DESTINATION

Peru is one of a select group of ten mega-diverse countries, offering a unique geography of mountains, sea and jungle. It is the third-largest country on the South America continent, occupying the west central area on the shores of the Pacific Ocean. The coastline is a water lover’s paradise, with a warm climate and excellent natural beaches. Surfing and deep-sea fishing are just some of the popular activities.

The Amazonia or jungle region has a tropical climate and lush vegetation, and is one of the world’s largest natural reserves. This large area makes up 60% of Peru, including the city of Iquitos on the banks of the mighty Amazon. This region’s greatest treasure is its marvelous biodiversity, with fantastic opportunities to delve into eco-tourism.

The third area is the highlands, dominated by the snow-capped peaks of the Andes and deep canyons such as Colca and Cotchuasi. Colca Canyon is twice as deep as the Grand Canyon and a true adrenalin rush for adventure travellers who enjoy activities such as rock climbing and mountain biking.

Peru is steeped in ancient culture, and splendid evidence of its glorious past is evident throughout the landscape. The Inca and their forefathers have left a magnificent legacy in such sites as Machu Picchu, the Sacred Valley, and the mysterious sites of the Nasca and Palpa Lines. The echo of the stones and the voices of the ancestral gods from Ancient Peru still lure us to the many archeological masterpieces.

We arrived in the South American springtime and found the weather very similar to what we had left at home. In the highlands they have a wet season (November to April) and a dry season (May to October). We experienced some rain as we started our Lares Trek, snow as we trekked up to the second peak, and some rain at Machu Picchu. The rest of our trip was pleasantly warm but not hot -- ideal for touring.

ATTRACTIONS

Our tour began and ended in the capital city of Lima, the traditional city of the kings, founded in 1535 by Conquistador Francesco Pizarro. Here, you can see everything from pre-Hispanic temples such as Pachacamac, which was the centre of the oracle, to the colonial architecture that has made Lima a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site. We took a short walking tour of downtown around the main square of Plaza Mayor, with its many cathedrals and palaces. The Torre Tagla Palace and the Cathedral of Lima were among the magnificent historical Spanish buildings we had the opportunity to view and be awed by. Lima is also the gateway to the rest of Peru.

From here, we took a plane to Cusco, the archaeological capital of the Americas and the continent’s oldest inhabited city. The Spaniards made Cusco a colonial city and built it on top of Inca foundations. Inca ruins surround this unique city and you should allow at least three or four full days to truly appreciate all it has to offer. It has a variety of tourist shops and great restaurants to stimulate the appetite. I loved Cusco, with its interesting blend of Inca and Spanish history, scenery, shopping delights and friendly people. It has the perfect mix to satisfy all travellers.

The highlight of our third day was a visit to the Sacred Valley of the Incas, which includes some remarkable archaeological areas such as Pisac and the complex of Choquequirac. Walking through these sites made us realize the impact these ancient people had on this magnificent country. The views were breathtaking and the terracing systems of the Incas were amazing to see.

On day four we set off on the Lares Trek. This three-day hike crosses two impressive peaks; the highest is 4,650 meters above sea level. We were the only travelers on this awesome trek, which gave us a wonderful opportunity to absorb the beauty and the harshness of the landscape. About 2,000 people make this trek every year, whereas the more famous Inca Trail is limited to 200 per day in order to protect its ecosystem. We had several opportunities to interact with local families who live a very Spartan life in the mountains. The children would run out to meet us and the adults were always quick with a friendly smile and cheery greeting. Although we didn’t speak their native language of Quechua, we were able to enjoy these moments with limited Spanish and much mime. Llamas grazing on the hillsides definitely added to the wonder of it all. After 39 km, we ended our trek in Ollantaytambo, where we caught the train to Aguas Calientes. The name of this touristy little town at the base of Machu Picchu translates to “hot water,” and we spent a little time soaking our sore muscles at the hot spring baths.

The next morning we rose early and took a bus up to Machu Picchu. Even though it was raining, the site was still very, very impressive and the highlight of the tour. Our guide took us on a two-hour tour and then we had free time to explore and just soak in the absolute wonder of it all. We spent the remainder of our day shopping and then boarded the train to Ollantaytambo, where taxis drove us back to Cusco.

After an overnight in Cusco, we boarded our big yellow Tucan coach for a comfy ride to Puno and Lake Titicaca. This lake is the highest navigable lake in the world and is home to very unique inhabitants who are descendants of an ancient people. They maintain their ancient social and farming systems despite the modern world closing in all around them. Puno was alive with a carnival atmosphere as the university students were parading and partying all night. They were dressed in costumes and the bands played and marched until 5 am. We didn’t get much sleep but enjoyed being part of such a festive experience.

Bicycle taxis greeted us in the morning and took us to the port for our cruise to Taquile and Amantani islands. The altitude is very high here as well, so trekking across the islands was somewhat laborious. Our visit included an overnight home stay with the locals on Amantani. They have no electricity or running water in their homes, so this was a very humbling environment. They were very hospitable, sharing their meager meals with us and providing music and dancing after dinner.

The next morning we said our goodbyes and sailed back to Puno, stopping at the floating islands of Uros on the way. These islands are man-made, constructed from reeds that grow in the lake. The people here were friendly and lively, singing Row Row Row Your Boat to us as we left them. Back in Puno, we enjoyed shopping and dinner before heading to the airport in Juliaca for our flight back to Lima and then home to Canada.

I want to add that one of the best parts of adventure touring is the unexpected. Some of the most memorable moments on my tour were definitely not on the itinerary. When protesters blocked the only road to Lares, we had lunch in a lady’s back yard before making a group decision to sneak through the picket lines. We hired a large truck filled with pineapples to transport us to the starting point of our trek. We named it the Pineapple Express, and rode for nearly four hours in the back of this vehicle with our rain ponchos on. Another happy surprise was the parades and partying in Puno; they weren’t scheduled, but they gave us a fine introduction to the carnival spirit of Latin America.

ACCOMMODATION

Peru offers a full spectrum of accommodation options. Upscale chain hotels such as the Marriott are well represented in the major centres. On our tour, we stayed primarily in 3-star independent hotels, including:

Kamana Hotel (Lima): This well-located 3-star hotel is right downtown, close to the Plaza Mayor and Government Palace. The rooms had twin beds and private bathrooms. The water took a long time to warm up but eventually we had hot water for showers. There was a phone in the room and a TV. They also had Internet service.  A small café served breakfast, plus dinner and bar service in the evenings. www.hotelkamana.com.

Garcilaso 1 Hotel (Cusco):  This hotel was very central and had a quaint little courtyard where our group gathered before heading out. Again, the rooms were very basic, though a little bigger than in Lima. We had no hot water when we first arrived, but it did materialize after a lengthy wait. The room had a phone and TV. There was a table in the corner of the courtyard with hot water and coco leaves, which we put to good use, as coco leaves help ease the symptoms of altitude sickness. There was also a water cooler for refilling your water bottles and a little area that served a buffet breakfast. There are two Garcilaso hotels on the same street in Cusco, and apparently they offer similar accommodation.  

Continental Hotel (Aguas Calientes):  This very basic hotel is handy to the train that runs through town. Rooms are small, with twin beds and compact bathrooms. We had no towels and again hot water was iffy at best. This hotel did not have dining facilities but we were able to go next door to their sister hotel for a nice buffet breakfast. The staff here did not speak English, so it was a challenge to arrange our early morning wake up call but we did succeed.

Plaza Mayor (Puno):  This was a step up in hotels and I would give it 31/2 stars.  The rooms were large; ours had a king bed and a twin bed, plus a nice-sized bathroom. Internet service was free, and a buffet breakfast was included. The location was ideal -- just a few doors down from the Scotia bank and lots of restaurants and shops. www.plazamayorhostal.com.

DINING

I found the food in Peru very good, and economically priced, with a fair selection in most towns. We tried alpaca, guinea pig and lake trout, along with steak, pizza and pasta. Potatoes and corn are staples; there were other vegetables, though not as much variety as we’re used to. The drink to try is their pisco sour, which is especially refreshing after climbing around Machu Picchu.

SHOPPING

We had a few opportunities to shop. In the town of Pisac. near Cusco, we had a wander through the outdoor market that takes place every Sunday. The locals were selling alpaca sweaters, toques, ponchos and other knitted goods. There was a good selection of wall hangings, artwork, and tablecloths.

Before beginning our trek, we stopped at the market in Calca to buy coco leaves and rain ponchos, along with bread for the children we would meet while walking. It was a local food market with lots of vegetables and staples. In the more tourist-oriented Aguas Calientes, there were lots of vendors selling sweaters, artwork and handicrafts.
Cusco and Puno also offered lots of shopping with similar items for sale. Prices are reasonable, and the vendors love to barter.

TOURING OPTIONS

I traveled with Tucan Travel, an adventure travel tour company.  They offer five different types of travel, all geared to the moderately fit person:
 

1. Adventure tours. Designed for travellers between the ages of 18 to 60 years old who love the concept of using many different forms of local transport, and want lots of interaction with local people. There is a certain amount of personal responsibility involved, which means carrying your own bags to the bus or train and helping the driver load the bags.  If you enjoy meeting locals and don’t mind roughing it from time to time, these trips will be just right for you.
2. Discovery tours. Suitable for 18- to 55-year-olds who are keen to see Latin America with the added security and flexibility that travelling in a custom-made vehicle provides. If you enjoy group travel with the comfort and assurance of competent personnel guiding you, then these tours are for you.
   
3. Overland expeditions. Feature a combination of camping and hotels for a truly authentic trip through rugged landscapes and a variety of terrains. They are best suited for 18- to 45-year-olds who are reasonably fit and enjoy the great outdoors.
   
4. Independent travel. Ideal for those who want the flexibility and freedom to personalize their itineraries. Tucan provides an array of mini-excursions that can be combined with free time to create a custom-tailored holiday. There are also language tours and Socio Adventures, where travellers help the communities they visit.
   

 

GETTING THERE

We flew Air Canada from Calgary to Toronto, and from Toronto to Lima.  Continental Airlines also offers flights via Houston from Calgary to Lima. Delta and American Airlines have flights with multiple stops.

GETTING AROUND

My tour allowed me to experience a variety of transportation options. Domestic air travel to major centres is provided by Lan Peru. There is a train service from Cusco to Aguas Calientes; we travelled first-class, with seats at the front of the train and a meal included. On our return trip, we rode second-class and found it just as comfortable.

A bus service is available to Machu Picchu; I would strongly recommend going early, as the site starts to get crowded with tourists by 9:00 a.m. If it is not raining, you can go at 4:00 a.m. and watch the sun rise.

Local taxis are inexpensive; just be sure to negotiate the cost before setting out. Bicycle taxis are a fun way to go a short distance. On longer journeys, such as our trip from Cusco to Puno, I enjoyed riding in the Tucan discovery coach. This is a fully equipped vehicle with tables in the back where you can play cards or have a snack. The bus seats 34, and has a fridge, a bathroom and a library, plus equipment to recharge your laptop or digital camera. You can even plug in an iPod and share music with your group. The coach is also equipped with coolers for picnic lunches that are prepared en route.

TRAVEL TIPS

 

• No liquids are allowed in your carry-on bags, so be sure to pack them in your checked luggage.
• Departure tax for local flights is twenty sols or about $7. They will accept   sols or USD. The departure tax for international flights is 95 sols or $31.00 USD.
• Drink only bottled water or boiled water.
• Canadian citizens require a passport valid for at least six months after their return date.
• Adventure tour companies require proof of medical insurance, so you must purchase it when booking your trip.
• It is strongly recommended that you visit the international health clinic for up-to-date information on vaccinations. I had my hepatitis and tetanus up to date so only needed flu shot. If going to the jungle areas around the Amazon, a yellow fever shot is most likely required. Check with your doctor or the health clinic about medication for altitude sickness. Most of our group had pills with them, but a couple of people who did not have medication were quite sick.
• US dollars are accepted in most of the larger towns. I took enough sols with me to cover my trip; other travellers frequented the bank machines in the larger cities. There are Scotiabanks in Lima and Puno; there are also currency exchange shops and some hotels offer that service.
• It is expected that you will tip your guides, camp porters and drivers. Be sure to bring extra funds for this. The tip for our guide for five days was $25 USD per person.
• Adventure travel is a unique type of holiday, and the best laid plans often change, which is part of the adventure. We were given a quote, which I found to be very true. “The key to adventure travel is this:  relax, keep a sense of humour and remember that often the most memorable parts of the trip are those that you first wish to forget!”

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Up for a little adventure in the land of the Inca? Call Cathe Smith at (403) 299-4401 or e-mail csmith@calgarycoop.com for more information on travel to Peru. Or visit any Calgary Co-op Travel Offices; dial our Call Centre (299-4144) for service after hours, Sundays and holidays; or book online 24/7 via www.calgarycoop.com.